As my sister relaxed at the Ryokan, I made my way to Mandara-Yu, my next onsen, which was conveniently located across the street. The ladies loved it, so much so that there was a large line to enter. It is said that a holy priest named Dochi prayed nonstop for a thousand days in order to bring forth the waters of Mandara, which means “enlightened mind.” And so, the name is born. The Mandara-yu is located just beside the mountains.
Even in the tranquility of Kinosaki, we business owners couldn’t tear our eyes away from our phones. Work still had to be done even when we’re on vacation. We were able to find a happy medium between work and play thanks to the abundance of convenience stores and consistent wifi, so we could enjoy our holiday to the most.
Did you know there are photocopy machines in convenience stores that print documents, scan and send things that you need? You can also have photo-quality images printed from your phone. Additionally, there are fantastic cafes where you can relax with your laptops and get some work done.
Your Onsen guide
For those planning to experience the magic of Kinosaki’s onsens or any Onsen Towns in Japan, here are some handy tips. Take note, there are seven public onsens in Kinosaki but there are several private ones. When you check in to a hotel or Ryokan, you are given a complimentary Onsen Pass for the duration of your stay. For those who are checked-in to Airbnbs or not in any accredited hotels, you might have to pay a minimal fee per onsen.
1. Your hotel and Ryokans got you covered
Leave your worries behind and travel light; the Ryokans provide all the essentials. You get a robe to wear for you entire stay. I actually brought only one change of clothes and two pairs of underwear. The cute Yukatas can be worn around town so you can feel like a local. They also provide you with towels. In the onsen, they have combs, blow-dryers, toiletries and even lotion. Most of these are high-quality ones. They also smell so good. The only thing I needed was my specialized face lotion, sun block and deodorant.
2. Observe the rituals
When you enter any onsen, there is a locker room for your shoes. Only put shoes there. There is a separate locker for clothing. That will be the second room you enter. Strip to nothing and put everything inside. Take the key and the smaller towel. Yes, nude. Everyone enters the bath proper in their birthday suit. The towels aren’t for covering either. It is for drying yourself after the bath. Embrace the ritual of cleansing before entering the onsen proper by scrubbing well. Shampoo, conditioner and bath soaps are provided. You may choose to wash your hair or not. Shower caps are provided as well. Remember to keep your soak brief, around 10-15 minutes. This is because there is usually a queue outside and the onsen managers make sure it is not too tight inside. Also, keeping 10-minute soaks are healthy but might make you dizzy if longer than that so listen to your body. Dry yourself well. Some onsen have saunas that you can go in for free or you may start drying and dressing to go.
3. Respect the culture
Respect the cultural norms, especially regarding tattoos. Kinosaki is tattoo-friendly but many in Japan are not. Some onsen will give you flesh-colored bandages to wrap your tattoos with while some will allow it uncovered. Photography in the onsen or locker rooms is not allowed. Sorry, can’t Tiktok inside. This is because everyone is naked.
Revel in the feminine energy that permeates the female section of the onsens. Or if you are male by birth, please use the male section of the onsen. All onsens in Japan are segregated. They don’t care if you are a lady-boy or trans. They care what is hanging or not down below. So, please observe that. It is culture and not something to do with feelings. If you are uncomfortable, there are private onsens that you can rent.
4. Explore the town
Yes, the town proper is still small. It is composed only of a couple streets that lead to the train station. Old residential dwellings are still found interspaced along with converted commercialized buildings. Did you know there is a Ghibli Shop in Kinosaki? Was not able to take photos because I was already feeling unwell but it is official and quite quaint.
